Sainsbury's Beer Challenge: Williams Bros

In the last few years, UK supermarkets have been undergoing a quiet revolution when it comes to stocking quality beer. Rather than get all dewy-eyed about the demise of Safeway and their foreign beer list, the chainstore-shopping toper can be excited about initiatives that bring world class UK beers to a wider market. 'Beer challenges' have proved popular; a range of beers are trialled with the fastest/highest volume seller gaining an ongoing national listing.

Which brings us to Sainsbury's. Their 2009 challenge sees fifteen beers promoted from ten brewers, almost half of the beers being Scottish. Yes, Brewdog's distinctive bottles are in there but it's fellow countrymen Williams Brothers who lead the way with four entries showcasing differing styles. I took a few bottles out and about with me to see how they fared, as well as handing some out to colleagues for their impressions.

One thing that the Silverstone circuit lacks is decent beer. It's thirsty work being sat on your backside watching a few million quids worth of GT cars speed past, so I took two of the Williams beers with me on a recent jaunt to the Northamptonshire circuit.



Fighting my way into the crowded stands, Ceilidh was first up. Billed as a lager, it's got some latent sweetness but there's simply bags of crispy malt in there. A little citric licks around, some fresh flower petals. A very smooth mouthfeel makes for an enjoyable botle; not a quencher, more golden ale than lagery, still worth taking a punt on.

Next on the schedule was the IPA. Lager malted again to give that lilt of sweetness and smooth texture. Was it well-hopped? Well, there's a whiff of Amarillo here but the Bramling Cross mix makes for a balanced hop feel. In fact, it's so well balanced as to be almost understated; perhaps lifted by a tinge of cinnamon-topped apple pie in there? Certainly another fair whack of sweeter malts. It's all fairly smooth, but I prefer a few rough edges with my IPAs.

The other two beers were reserved for post-lawnmowing on Sunday. Birds and Bees was the intriguing one; Belgian pale malt, hopped with Cascade and Bobek hops and infused with elderflowers and lemon zest. It was smooth enough, with the now-customary clean-sweet malts bolstered by a wheaty backbone. Fruity enough, with some plump juicy fruits to the fore. Zesty? Not really. Elderflower? Barely. Which was disappointing at the time as I'm keen on such flavours when they're full-on. But on reflection, Birds and Bees struck a similar balance to the other Williams beers and was probably better for it.

Which leaves the 80/- til last. To be honest I wasn't expecting much from this, which is why it was sat at the back of the fridge and behind the others in the pecking order. And so it's great to be blindsided. Gorgeous cool toffee (anyone else love toffee out the fridge?) with a biscuity crunch. Hedgerow fruitiness that bursts as you work it round your mouth. Bits of bonfire toffee lurking too. Yet it's still really soft, the combination of calm carbonation and clean malts seems to have become a trademark of these Williams beers.

So what does that leave us with? A lager that isn't, but is golden; a golden ale that is golden but isn't elderflower; an IPA that's flowery but not that fruity and a fruity bitter that's above all expectation. With liquid toffee-dunked Digestives.

And because I'm a generous chap, I shared some bottles around at work. Birds and Bees was classed as "yummy", Ceilidh had "burnt malt and hints of citrus". And 80/- was "pleasantly enjoyable". I'd second that emotion.

These beers are (hopefully) on the shelves of a Sainsbury's near you. If, indeed, you have a Sainsbury's near you. You can probably buy them online. Possibly. If you can't see them in store, try the aisle where they hide the seasonal stuff.

And at four for the price of three, you can treat yourself to the full Williams set for (I think) £5.97.


Thanks to Williams Brothers for the samples